San Martin de los Andes

We found this to be a charming town, with nice people, cute streets and a relaxing place to end our tour of the lake district. It started with a bus ride from Villa La Angostura which was more or less uneventful, except for the police pulling our van over at a designated chekpoint, waking us all up to show our passports, then banging on the sides of the van and basically chatting it up with our driver for half an hour. So we arrived in town at around midnight. Levi had booked the hostel, which as a surprise turned out to be a 4 star hotel! I was SO excited. The bed was really soft, the whole place was clean, there was an elevator and hot water. Lots of it. We took showers (we were filthy from the bike ride we had taken that day) and watched the dirt come off in streams, then ran out for a quick dinner, then went back to the hotel to crash (but not before requesting a late check out for the next day...nothing worse than having to rush out in the morning!). When I woke up I took a bubble bath (oh the luxury!) and then another shower. It was really exciting to have a nice bathroom, trust me!!!

We then went to an amazing restaurant where we were treated like special guests. Well, actually, we were the only ones there, so I think the waiters were just really bored. But it was like- I take a sip of water, the guy comes rushing to fill the glass- type of service. A big change from the usual. Then we found a hostel which turned out to be fantastic. We really lucked out. The place is called Casa Alta, and is run by a really nice old couple who rent 4 rooms in their big house. We were really lucky to get in there, too, becuase as we were checking in 4 other groups came up to ask if there was room and they were all turned away. The lady then showed us to our room, gave us a minute to settle, and we both laid on the beds and were asleep within seconds. We were exhausted!

After a nap we headed out to wander the town, buy bus tickets for Mendoza and then go to a movie. Afterward we went to a restaurant for a little snack and were subsequently reprimanded by our waitress for not finishing the platter. She was really pissed! Then when we got into the hostel the light had been left on in our room and our beds had been turned down...this is just not the way it usually works, so we were totally charmed (I was, anyway). This morning the husband talked to us a breakfast and told us all about his fruit trees and his jam-making hobby. He was so funny- couldn't wait for us to finish our breakfast so he could show us his trees. He also told us this joke- A guy says "I am getting married," and the other guys asks "Against who?" at this point he cracked up, then told it to us again with the punchline in Spanish then again in English, then cracked up anew. Man, the thought that was a really funny joke.

Today we have been wandering the town, looking in the shops, waiting for our bus at 2. We went into one store where they had a huge arrangement of mate gourds. They had these gourds that were fur-covered but were so soft, not like the usual cowhide ones that I have seen. I was stroking them and petting them, marvelling at how soft they were.
I turned to the girl "¿Estos son de guanaco?"
"No se," replied the girl, and she asked another guy. "¿De que animal son estos?"
"Son toros," said the guy.
"Oh. they're made from cow," I said to Levi. "But they are so soft," and I looked at the guy. He loked at me again and made a gesture like in front of his chest.
"Son del pecho?" I asked (are they made from the chest hair? I fugured maybe that's the soft part.)
"No, bajo! Son toros!" He said, now cupping his hands and holding them a bit lower in front of him.
"Oh my God!!!" And I am dying and laughing hysterically.
They are made from Bull's balls!!! And here I am stroking them and making Levi stroke them and so excited at how soft they are.